The internet is full of style tips that simply aren’t relevant to a lot of people. We’re not advocates of fast fashion, looksmaxing or of telling you what to do here at Cravat Club. However, with fashion often being seen as a woman’s game, and men as merely background players, we’d like to offer a challenge to the orthodoxy. Men’s fashion is as varied, complex and baffling as it is for women, and it comes with many pitfalls and societal expectations, some of which seem designed to trip you up.
To help equip our stylish readers with some base notes, here are fifteen things we think every man needs to have in their wardrobe. While not every single garment mentioned will be applicable to you, taking something from almost every section will give you a set of clothes that’s varied, versatile and extremely stylish, ensuring you always feel like yourself whatever the context.
Suits
For many kids, getting their first suit is a rite of passage. It’s a sign of manhood, and is what you wear for grown-up events of import - weddings, graduations, job interviews. While a suit is designed to last a long time, and is perhaps the last vestige of proper tailoring most people encounter, no one is suggesting that your first suit is going to be with you for life. However we play it, our bodies change as we get older, and a properly fitted suit will flatter and accommodate that rather than expose it.
Firstly, you will need a formal suit of some sort. Black is good, but it doesn’t strictly have to be - greys, charcoals, navys, or subtle pinstripes also work well. We’d advise having something lighter in your wardrobe as well, be it brown, tweed, grey, blue or something else. Despite the relatively narrow band you’re working in, there is still a lot of room for variation.
We can’t stress this enough - it NEEDS to fit. It’s better to alter a suit, or simply get a new one, than it is to try and squeeze yourself into something that no longer fits. It doesn’t need to be perfect down to the last micrometre, but a well-fitted suit will genuinely perform miracles on your look, whereas an ill-fitting one will look amateurish no matter how handsome you may be underneath. You don’t buy these often, so quality is worth shelling out for in this case. If you do have the budget, a custom-tailored suit is a great use of money. and certainly better than having many cheap ones. It can also be more affordable than you may think, though there is also virtually no ceiling on price once you start to get excited, so be realistic about what compromises you can stand to make.
Shoes
Good formal shoes should go hand-in-hand with a good suit. There are probably occasions where it’s acceptable to wear trainers with your suit, but they’re vanishingly rare. A good pair of shoes would also serve you well in the office, or if you’re in a more manual profession, whenever you’d like to look nice to go somewhere decent.
Loafers are often surprisingly comfortable, and tooled leather can add some cute detailing to an otherwise monolithic outfit. While we’d never recommend brown shoes with a black suit, they look spectacular in other contexts. Again, this is something that, unless you need to, you may not wear every day - but, when you have them, you’ll be amazed at quite how useful they are, so often providing the perfect finishing touch.
Leisurewear
Whether it’s for spending time with the family, relaxing at home, or for travelling long distances, having some leisurewear that you like is utterly crucial. If you’re anything like us, there’s likely to be a distinction between the sort you’re happy to be seen in, and the sort that are for domestic purposes only. Both are perfectly fine and to be encouraged - just don’t attend your big job interview in them…
Athletic wear
A substantial crossover with leisurewear, athletic wear is a bit more tuned and utilitarian. If you’re a runner, you’ll need some good quality running shoes, technical clothing, reflective wear etc, whereas if you’re a gym rat, you might need some support wear to complement your kit. In the same conversation would be things such as waterproof jackets or hiking boots, as would swimwear. This is all stuff with a purpose, but certain pieces can also be incorporated well into your daily wear if you’re careful. Thankfully, this area often sees a happy mingling of things we need and things we want, so don’t hesitate to get the things you think you “need”.
Summer wear
While your holiday or trips to the beach are places to relax, there’s no reason to let your drip drop while the sun shines. Summer wear is of course an area to try things out that you wouldn’t at home, but you can still keep style uppermost in your mind. Good sunglasses are a must, as are shirts, shorts and t-shirts that hold up in the heat. Sandals can be great if they’re your thing, while skiwear is a whole category in itself that we hesitate to open up. This is the place to have fun, so you can afford to be fearless.
Jeans
Whatever the cut, jeans aren’t going anywhere. Whenever styles change, they always seem to reassert their centrality to men's fashion. Hardwearing, comfortable and ridiculously versatile, you’d think they select themselves, but getting the fit right for your body shape, style and personal taste can be extraordinarily hard. If you’re someone who fits well into a major manufacturer’s range, lucky you! You’ll always find the tool you reach for on the shelves, whatever colour or cut you’re after. If for whatever reason they just don’t work for you, you may find your goldilocks pair at smaller manufacturers, or maybe even on vintage and second-hand racks. It pays dividends to shop around and keep an open mind about what’s going to work. Designer jeans are great, but even supermarket jeans can look good if they fit correctly - be prepared to try many on before you find them, and be prepared to show brand loyalty when you do.
Ties
They say every man needs a tie, and who are we to argue? As part of our range of accessories, we knew that neckties are non-negotiable, providing a shorthand for formal wear everywhere they go. Indeed, a choice of tie can often help to define a man’s look, providing a focal point for personal style in an outfit that’s otherwise defined by conformity.
Now, there are good ties, and there are bad ties. We’re not saying for a moment that there isn’t a place for a novelty tie or a fancy dress number, we just think they have no business being in a formal context. A slightly narrower tie can give a more youthful look, while a slightly wider one perhaps has more presence and seriousness. Patterns however can be your friend - paisleys, polka dots or vibrant, modern prints can look amazing when paired well with the rest of the look. They can also be a place for luxury; for example, all of our silk ties are heavyweight silk, making for a luxuriant feel and shimmering effect in the light. You don’t have to spend a lot to look good, but spending a little more can be a small touch of decadence that the wearer can truly enjoy.
Cravat
If you travel a little further down the tie’s well-trodden road, you’ll find our true favourite and your secret style weapon - the cravat. Easier to wear than a tie, with more scope for patterns and an undeniably louche, easy-living bearing, they’re perfect for expressing your individuality. Even we can’t argue that they’re essential for everyone, but once you acquire the taste for these luxurious accessories, it’s really hard to get enough of them, and you’re likely to need several depending on your mood and outfit. They’re comfortable, beautiful, and allow you to express your individuality perfectly. Indeed the very choice to wear one in the first place instantly takes you out of the rank and file. They’re addictive, and don’t say we didn’t warn you…
Pocket Squares
If a cravat is a “nice-to-have”, we’d argue that its small, discreet cousin is truly essential. A pocket square is the little piece of decoration that takes a jacket to heights it could never dream of by itself. The status rise that a pocket square gives even the simplest outfit is quite something - a good litmus test is to try slipping one into the pocket of your office suit, and seeing just how ready for the night you’ll be.
A pocket square, at its simplest, is just a handkerchief stuck in the breast pocket, giving the eye somewhere to rest as it scans. That belies its power though - it’s also the detail that makes the difference, allowing the same jacket to switch roles effortlessly and to offer something different without changing everything all at once. We’ve made the case for the pocket square many times, and have created many different styles and designs to harness their capabilities, but we truly believe that they’re worth their weight in gold. If there’s one takeaway from this article, we recommend that you try a pocket square out and see for yourself.
Accessories
Perhaps the area where personal preference matters most, accessories are truly down to the individual. A watch is a classic status symbol, and endlessly useful - yes, we know it’s on your phone, but a wristwatch is so much more stylish and less fussy. Not everyone can afford a hyper-expensive Swiss mechanical heirloom, but a simple Timex or Casio works just as well for the purpose.
Speaking of phones, put it in a case for goodness’ sake. It doesn’t need to be expensive or bombproof, but it’s just so easy to drop one on a surface or corner it doesn’t like, and your £1000+ personal computer becomes stained glass. Your wallet also says something about your personality, and we’re not advocates of just sticking your bank card in a phone case to go out. We recommend investing in something half-decent, maybe leather or quality fabric, to slip business or credit cards into.
Glasses are an essential for many, and again they don’t have to be expensive, the frame just has to work well with your face shape. Sadly, there’s no way to know other than by experimenting, but a quick visit to any bricks-and-mortar optician will show you a myriad to choose from. Finally, PLEASE ensure the prescription is the one you actually need - no style statement is worth sacrificing your eyesight for.
Jewellery is something that is totally down to preference, with many men opting for the legitimate option of no jewellery whatsoever. A chain or necklace can work beautifully, as can a bracelet, whether it’s a chunky masculine one or something more sentimental. Piercings are obviously common and worn a variety of different ways, and rings on your fingers might be your thing, whether it’s a wedding band or something more decorative. Just remember that all these pieces work together, so they’re as much a part of your outfit as your suit or jeans.
Hats
People tend to separate themselves into two camps - the hat-wearers, and the hat-phobics. People tend to either be wedded to the idea of a hat, or almost never utilise one, and it’s either an indispensable ingredient to a daily outfit, or just feels wrong on you. Now, there are many different types of hats, and we struggle to imagine that there might never be a hat that works in your wardrobe, whatever your usual tastes say.
For casual hats, beanies in the winter and baseball caps in the summer are hardly an unusual choice, but always work well when paired with the right casual ensemble. For more formal occasions, a fedora or straw boater, or even a cowboy hat, might feel strange to some, but utterly liberating to others, so we recommend keeping an open mind on what you “should” wear.
Finally, a note on hair. For many whose hair is not what it once was, a hat might make your look feel more complete, becoming something you put on as a matter of course. Naturally, the more put together a hairstyle, the harder justifying a hat becomes, but don’t think that you can’t use one because your hair is good, or that you MUST have one just because your hair is thinner. Try some out and see if the changes work for you.
Shirts
A staple for obvious reasons, but a “shirt” can truly be many things. Many people need good shirts for the office, and this can be in the context of a full suit and tie or a more dressed-down, casual approach. However, dressing “casually” for work for many would still require a shirt rather than full-on leisure wear, and many restaurants you’d take your significant other to might, ahem, “strongly imply” that a collared shirt is preferred. In short, these are not optional.
Thankfully a shirt gives you lots of options for many different situations, and having a few in varying directions will provide a strong basis for a lot of outfits. You will certainly need a dressed-up white one or several, making you good for a formal office or any special occasions. A couple of casual shirts are a good idea too, allowing you to incorporate them in many different ways. Pinstripes or pale colours are a good way to ring the changes to the same suit, and going for wilder colours or Hawaiian prints is the perfect way to subvert formality and express yourself. If you’re so inclined, a short-sleeved shirt is a great way to keep cool in the summer too.
Plain T-Shirts
An obvious one, but you’d be surprised how many men don’t own many plain t-shirts. A simple black or white t-shirt can be dressed up or down in countless ways, and ends up being put to work in almost every context. Logo tees or polo shirts are great for what they are, but lack the startling versatility of something simpler. To put this garment to further use, a bright or pastel colour gives you another stylistic brush to paint with, and can take you in different directions. We recommend having a few white and a few black, and some others to play with should the mood strike you.
A Good Coat
A good coat is a piece worth spending some money on. A high-quality, hardwearing outer trench coat or similar will serve you as well as a suit, and even better in many cases, being a hugely versatile garment. Of course, this extends into winter wear too, and it’ll help you keep the weather out whilst giving you a truly gentlemanly bearing. There’s probably no need to go into truly expensive territory here, but it’s fine if you want to - it will last for many seasons. The second-hand market is a great way to find outstanding quality at an affordable price too. Natural fibres are your friend here, as are muted colours that work well with a lot of outfits. This is one of those areas that unavoidably need investment, but we doubt you would ever regret it.
Socks
Just as every brushstroke in the Sistine Chapel matters, socks are not a detail you should neglect. Good quality, comfortable, breathable socks in dark colours will make your life a lot easier when encountering the daily grind. Likewise, comfortable athletic socks for outside of work feel great and work exactly as they should. Finally, don’t go anywhere in boots without thick, supportive socks to accompany, or you might be in for a very bad time. Look after your feet, and treat them to socks they deserve.
A Comprehensive Guide?
As a rough sketch of what your wardrobe should look and feel like, we think this is fairly complete, and equips most men for most situations. But what are we missing? Is there something that you rely on that just hasn’t occurred to us? This is what we mean by the complexity of men’s fashion - there is always a surprise around the corner. However, by having a basis as strong as this one, you’re ready to start testing the limits.
Even if fashion isn’t really your thing, having some staple pieces that work on you will make life so much easier, and allow you to feel happy and comfortable in whatever you’re taking on. It’s worth the time and money to get the basics right, allowing you to do the truly important stuff with confidence.
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